Chen Shasha: Compared with Europe and Japan, whether it is art education, consumer taste, or the cooperation between designers and operators, Chinese creation is far away.
This year, the artists organized by Yu Yaude Art Museum are undoubtedly Shanghai's popular exhibition.This exhibition has attracted the attention of the public, and I am afraid that it is still a popular name of Gucci. Many young people walking on the streets of Magic capital are Gucci consumers or potential consumers.
The exhibition itself is controversial, because it is full of replication, and even the poster imitate the poster used by Serbian artist Abramovic when he runs the exhibition in MOMA in New York.Not only did people question: Isn't this world admiring original?GUCCI's dignified replication does not violate the original protection spirit?
A Gucci sponsorship related replication exhibition
However, it is interesting that the spirit of the exhibition conveys is: copying, misappropriation, and re -interpretation.From the sculptures of ancient Greece to the female workers of Argentine artists hellip; hellip; after the reshapeing exhibits, it can be said to be both Gucci and the world.
After reading it, I lamented: Why do you say that brands such as Gucci can dominate the world for so many years?Is it possible for China to give birth to such a brand?This problem is very interesting.Yeah, why did it stand for nearly a century?It is often said that the rise of Italian brands originated from its craftsmanship.However, think about the accumulation of traditional culture in China for thousands of years, and there are many craftsmen with superb craftsmanship. The silver or felt, embroidered craftsmen in those villages, those natural jade, cotton, cashmere hellip; hellip;Most of them have become the top luxury goods in the world without re -creation, so the price is low.Young people in the village would rather work in the factory to work and become workers on the assembly line of foreign -funded enterprises.
In fact, it is not just the spirit of craftsmanship that really brings brands such as Gucci to the world.I remember when I was studying for development at the University of London's Asia -Africa College, one of them was Italian. She took the Italian brand as an example to explore the path about industry and globalization.
The rise of Italy's design
The first thing to mention is funding support and cultural heritage.The great development of the Italian handmade industry originated after the World War II.At that time, the aid funds of the Marshall plan in the United States flowed into Italy and revitalized the textile industry with a century -old history.In central Italy and northeast, a group of family workshops (tailors, shoemakers) in the 1960s and 1970s began to operate their own brands and gave birth to exquisite workmanship and handmade leather shoes.These companies often have only 5-50 people, which are absolute small and medium-sized enterprises, but their exquisite workmanship just meets consumers' needs for high-quality Shangpin.These exquisite small companies are labeled as the industrial form of the post -Ford era.Different from the large industries and assembly lines in the Ford era, these small enterprises are characterized by hand -made, focusing on design, and flexible product form and being customized.
The gathering area of small enterprises quickly formed an industrial cluster, where not only more designers entered, but also more convenient for external transportation. Products can continue to enter the European and global markets.
It can be said that in the early days of the development of Italian brands, deep cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and rich funds were indispensable.And only these are not enough.Another interesting phenomenon is that as early as the 18th to 19th centuries, Italy gave birth to a famous fashion magazine in the country.These magazines guarantee the inheritance of culture and taste and play a role in educating consumers.Therefore, although their consumers have been chasing a stronger brand from the UK before the rise of Italian brands.When they appear, consumers who know the goods will change to those high -quality local products.Their discerning taste has also promoted the improvement of the quality of local products.It can be said that consumers themselves have also contributed to the great development of Italy.
Secondly, we must talk about the innovation of design and publicity.
In terms of design, the Italian brand did not stick to local elements from the beginning.Taking Gucci as an example, its design draws the artistic inspiration of the European Renaissance during the European Renaissance, and was also influenced by London at that time. It blended the elements recognized by consumers in that era.Willing.
A classic example in the history of Gucci's development is: After the Second World War that year, European supplies were random and the family economy was also severely damaged.Under such circumstances, GUCCI, from consumers, changes the design of leather goods, uses bamboo from Southeast Asia in high -end products, and produces a very representative Bamboo Bag.The addition of this oriental element just happened to meet the needs of consumers at that time.
Last year, Gucci took the popular car of VR and launched 360Deg; panoramic VR film dances freely, and was released through social media platforms such as Instagram and Twitter, which once again attracted consumers' attention.Essence
The difference between Chinese and Western Chinese and Western in art education
A friend of a Chinese designer who lives in the UK has discussed with me, why can the art of Britain (and even many European countries) not only maintain artistic, and at the same time, it has done so successfully?We reflected on the level of education, and found that British art and creative education focused on inspiring children. They used different tools and various media to create. Children learned painting, dance, and music.How superb and the ability to copy in the tracks, how strong the ability to copy, but pay more attention to inspiring children to observe the world, diverge thinking, and keep up with the development of the world.For example, in addition to teaching children to draw a dog with a pencil, they also inspire children to draw on the ground with big brooms, or make a puppy movie with a mobile phone, and then match special effects.Children are not boring exercises. They fill up the time with extra -curricular classes, but can get the inspiration of artistic creation in life, movies, and museums.In terms of the selection and admission of art colleges, the school also values students' divergence and the diversity of themes for creative media, and does not want to find a superb but lack of creativity.
Some educators in the UK believe that if artists only understand art, he may not be able to do art.In the field of design, if the designer only pays attention to his art preferences, completely ignores the development and changes of the current world, and disconnect with consumers' feelings, then it is difficult for art products to have affection with consumers, and it is difficult to get greater market recognition.Spend.
How to rejoice with consumers?Designers and handicrafts do not necessarily go to the streets, understand the story of the people like journalists, and get creative inspiration; they can also broaden the ideas of creativity through extensive reading and breakthroughs in national borders and fields. This is also Western art.Education encourages children to try.Even if he is an art student, he can't just understand art, not to learn other knowledge.
Features of Japanese cultural output
Another controversial, but worth thinking about is: Since you want to rejoice with global consumers, how much local elements should be retained in a design that goes globally?Should non -local elements be supported?An interesting example in this area is Japan.Why are global consumers spending Japanese anime?
In the UK, I saw young Italian people holding Japanese anime derivatives, which was extremely satisfied; GermanyGirls wear Japanese two -dimensional clothing to school all year round, as if wearing more and more to the New World; and art universities talk about modern classic art works, and will also mention Japanese case hellip; hellip; I read some research discussions in Britain and America, theyUnexpectedly, the world's international and regional fuzzyness of the road of internationalization in Japan.
For example, Japanese cartoons were not very Japanese at first, and even everyone didn't know it was Japan.In the 1960s, the top speed racing in the United States, the characters inside are neither east nor the West. Now many consumers do not know that it is Japan.It is based on the well -known stories of Europeans, and has made the entire village of Main Feld. Every year, tourists have been enlightened, but this story has nothing to do with Japan.By the 1990s, Japanese anime occupied 1/3 of the world and was translated into more than 30 languages.
Interestingly, although Japan has its own unique culture, its anime creation is based on global culture (such as the Greek Temple image, the Three Kingdoms of China, etc.), and the race that blies the character image. You can hardly see itWho are they all?
Not long ago, I went to see a Japanese dance work Shanhai Villa. This work has gained great success and attention in the West.As a discerning dance audience, I did not think that it was clever than the Yunmen and Beijing Modern Dance Troupe in Taiwan in terms of dance skills.However, the clothing design in Shanhai Villa is just like the Japanese anime, which blurred the character races. All actors were dressed as a symbol.Death aesthetics.It is not like many modern dance works in China. It will be made very oriental in terms of clothing, dancing beauty, and editing, which clearly conveys the concept of oriental philosophy.
It can be said that whether it is Japanese cartoon or stage works, it seems that they have deliberately simplified culture, blurred the regional and regional cultural concepts, and highlight the universal value of love, life and death, and friendship.Some western scholars summarize the global output strategy of Japanese culture into a Cultural Discount theory, that is, simplify regional culture, and repay with global consumers. This is a very commercial creative idea, but it has achieved itsuccess.
Do all products need to be simplified when entering the global market?As a supporter of national culture, of course, I do not want this.But Japan's success allows people to see a path of commercialization.And in the later period, when the world was generally recognized by Japanese products, Western citizens began to pay attention to and consume Japanese local culture: from sushi, to the temple, to the Japanese traditional musical instrument workshop, hello;
So, how to make a market with a wider market?In addition to investing money, you may wish to pay attention at the same time:
The first is the universal and innovative design.As mentioned earlier, the designs of Italy and Japan, they all blend the elements of other ethnic groups and create it again.
So is there any products that use ethnic elements but surpass the nation itself?I think of Yang Liping's image of Yunnan.
This work that has obtained tens of millions of box office exceeds the expectations of investors.Some people say it was because Yang Liping's IP.But if you walk into the theater, you will find that the shocking power of this work far surpasses the star effect.I have visited some audiences, and they are generally impressed by one of the bridges: female dancers have a tension movement, and they talk about the sun with background music, rest!The moon breaks, rest! Woman rests, can't rest!The tenacity, hard work and beauty of women span the national boundaries, so that more audiences resonate and shock.And all national dancers not only retain their national language, but also show their life.Such creations distinguish between national artisans and artists.Yang Liping belongs to the latter.
Secondly, the product is recognized, and the cultivation of the consumer market is also required.When consumers on the market not only recognize the brand, but also have recognition for design and quality, then an original new brand is easier to get recognition.Italy's fashion media has played a role in cultivating consumers.And if all fashion media and large are pursuing foreign brand -name brands, consumers will recognize brand brands more, greater than recognition of quality, blindness, and lack of opinion and distinguish.
In addition, market propaganda needs to be grounded.The significance of propaganda lies in letting products go to social, connecting a larger world, not just endorsing artists and designers.Gucci is a good example.Regardless of its VR promotional videos or uploading selfies launched by WeChat Mini Program, the GUCCI dynamic expression is generated, which is very affordable to inspire consumers' attention and sharing.Another example is the real story plan.This public account encourages non -fiction writing, but the name is very grounded.Yeah, except for people in the news and literary circle, how many people know what is non -fiction writing?
A good publicity is to make everyone understand, rather than saying that the more they don't understand, it is very high -end and academic.It seems easy and difficult to tell a good story and to ground the work.
The two terrible situations are that the company puts most of the money into the front -end design and manufacture, and ignores the later publicity. The artist or designer treats the propaganda as an assistant, calling and drinking without paying attention and disrespect.This situation is more common in the cultural industry led by the creators.
Or should I pay too much attention to the promotional sales in the later period.
The establishment of a brand until a century, require all aspects of investment and ingenuity, and the cultivation and improvement of the consumer market. Is China on this road?
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